The year was 1973. I had just graduated from Lincoln High School in Portland, Oregon, and with saved money from mowing lawns and bussing tables, I clutched a paper ticket to Auckland, New Zealand. All through my younger days I fished the blue-ribbon streams of Montana with my bamboo rod – dry fly only – and my fly fishing purist of a grandfather.
Summertime wet wading, and catching 3 to 5 pound rainbows and browns, and not seeing another angler (for days!). We could see some fish rise, and some fish were moving deep, left and right, to take natural nymphs in the drift. We would always try a dry first, but if it wasn’t happening, then we would add 40 inches of tippet and drop in a Pheasant Tail Nymph. Boom!
For a decade, I heard the stories about my grandparents’ long, long, trip to New Zealand in 1951. In those days, Pan Am Airlines was going from San Francisco to Honolulu, then to Midway Island (guess where it got its name?), to Wake Island, Guam and then to Manila. I do not know how they got to New Zealand from there, but I do know that in 1958, the San Francisco to Tokyo flight took 32 hours!
Fishing as a team is the New Zealand formula for success. The angler moves slowly into position, as the guide spots the fish and gives directions. A wrong move or a horrible cast can spook the fish into deep water. All you have left are cussing, no fish, and excuses.
My adventurous grandparents spent six months in New Zealand, on both islands and fished those wonderful rivers that literally had no pressure. My grandfather told me when I was around 14 years old that his dry fly was probably the only artificial fly that the trout in those rivers saw during their lifetime. I was given maps from their trip and copies of my grandmother’s journal. With those items and a fiberglass Fenwick fly rod, a Phlueger Medalist reel, a Scientific Anglers Air Cel line and a backpack, I flew from Portland, Oregon to Honolulu to Auckland, NZ.
Even in 1973, I only saw other anglers at the famous New Zealand, Lake Taupo. I had the rivers and spring creeks all to myself. After several months on New Zealand’s North Island, I started exploring the sparsely populated South Island. I eventually fished my way down to Wanaka. It was a small town, surrounded by lakes and rivers and it had a Youth Hostel with rooms for a couple dollars a day. On my third day at the hostel, the police came and took away the warden (a strong word for the person who checked travelers in and explained the rules). The police saw me, all settled in, and asked how long I was planning on staying. I told them maybe two weeks. A minute later I was the new warden, and I got a big room and lived for free.
Checking in small groups of twenty-something Australians and hitchhiking around New Zealand was kind of fun. I would fish every day and work with the new arrivals every evening. I had a handmade sign that said to make yourselves at home (it was a dormitory with a couple bathrooms and a kitchen) and I would be back at 5:00pm.
In New Zealand, brown trout will seek holding/feeding spots in small tributaries. This brown was in a small tributary stream with just a few deep holes. The entire stream was under a forest canopy. There are no otters, osprey or eagles in New Zealand, so the trout are safe, even in skinny water. But, not safe from a well placed Elk Hair Caddis.
Wanaka, New Zealand had endless fly fishing opportunities. Back then, Queenstown was more hip and had real tourism and skiing, but Wanaka was small and quiet and I could fish nothing but dry flies for browns and rainbows to five pounds (leader and tippet material was so bad back then, I lost a few truly huge fish). I explored several watersheds and lakes. I had found paradise. The farther I hiked up the rivers, the better they got. I didn’t need a spotter or need to do the super stealthy on hands and knees approach to a spotted fish. I just cast upstream into good looking water. Big trout after big trout took my Gray Wulff.
I remember the Makarora River as one of my favorites. A small dirt road went upriver and an occasional beat up Land Rover would go by. Everyone always stopped and asked if I needed a lift. The people and trout were legendary.
Ten years later, after I left New Zealand, a fly fishing lodge started to host guests up that little dirt road. It was called Cedar Lodge. When I saw the first magazine article about Cedar Lodge and how they added helicopters to their fishing program, it made me drool. I walked and scrambled up those trails for hours, and many times there were no trails. A helicopter is brilliant. There are rivers that would take three days to walk to, and now they can be accessed in 15 minutes. I talked to the lodge manager last year and was really pleased that even after 30 years they are still finding new water and even less pressured streams. The guides and pilots create the fishing program, and by rotating destinations and resting the water they have kept the Makarora and many other incredible rivers just as wild and rewarding as they were when I was first there in 1974. My grandparents spent a week just traveling to New Zealand in 1951, today, the flight from Los Angeles is 13 hours and 30 minutes. Two books or five movies and going from winter to summer—how can you go wrong?
Very clear water clarity can be intimidating at first. Practice accurate, soft casts at 40 feet. Wade slowly and quietly. Breathe!
By: Brian O’Keefe
Angling Product Manager
The French Alps are arguably some of the most magnificent mountains in the world. With such vast and endless possibilities, it’s easy to overlook some of the best hiking trails this expansive area has to offer. To give you a glimpse of some of the trails that you can experience during your visit to Chalet Pelerin and Chalet Hibou, our Lead Guide, Jean Noel Gaidet, has compiled a list of his top five favorite hiking trails in the Tarentaise Valley. Read on to learn more about his favorite hiking adventures in the French Alps!
1. Refuge de l’Archeboc
The Refuge de l’Archeboc is an easy and beautiful hiking trail. As you navigate through traditional old stone chapels and slate roofs, while enjoying views of the Bec de l’Ane (3272M) and Archeboc (3280M) summits in the distance and local cows grazing in the flower-filled pastures nearby, you will be fully immersed in the untouched nature and cultural flair of the local area. The trail starts after a short drive to the hamlet of La Savonne, France. This trail continues to the hamlet of La Motte, and after a break at the Archeboc hut, you will cross to the opposite side to reach the Yaten Lake—a natural swimming pool where you can swim with the alpine newts, orange salamanders, dragonflies, and enjoy the magnificent view of the valley. The trail continues in the form of a path that follows the natural curves of the land and then winds through the larch forest of Gran Follié and returns to the village of Le Miroir where you will be greeted by your home away from home — Chalet Pelerin and Chalet Hibou.
2. Lac Longet and Verdet
The Lac Longet and Verdet hike is a moderate hiking trail with dream-like views of the French Alps. The Lac Longet and Verdet hike begins at the Ruitor Alpage, our private outpost close to Chalet Pelerin and Chalet Hibou. The Ruitor Alpage is located on an old rural road that was originally used by shepherds and their sheep. Panoramic views of the Ruitor and Becca du Lac glaciers and the Mont-Pourri and Sache Mountains will reward your efforts on this stunning hike. Eventually, you will arrive at Lac Longuet, and the Lac Verdet at the foot of the Dents Rouge where you’ll find the perfect spot for a quick dip in a beautiful alpine lake surrounded by the towering peaks of the Alps. To return to the beginning of the trailhead, find the path that goes down to the Ruitor plateau and make your way back to Chalet Pelerin and Chalet Hibou.
Hiking in the French Alps.
3. Lac du Clou / le Monal
The Lac du Clou / le Monal hike is filled with glacier views, green pastures, delicious cheese treats, and the scenery of Italy. After reaching the village of Chenal, France, you will head towards the hamlet of Monal. The villages of La Gurraz and Savinaz, sitting at the base of the Mont-Pourri glacier, offer exceptional glacier views. After crossing a field of flowers at the Combe, a short ascent brings you into the heart of the hamlet of Monal, famed for its architectural beauty with old wooden and stone chalets. Here, we will visit Yvette who makes Persillé, a traditional goat cheese discovered by Charlemagne during his crossing of the Alps. After taking the time to enjoy her delicious, locally produced cheeses, you will climb 2200m through the forest, while taking in the unbelievable views of the Pointe des Mines Glaciers and the ridge that separates France and Italy, to reach the superb alpine valley of Le Clou. After another 200m ascent through the grass, you arrive at the Lac du Clou where you can stop and enjoy the green meadows and the surrounding peaks, and maybe even try your hand at a little fishing or take a swim break before descending back the way you came.
4 . The Red Beak 2515M (“Bec Rouge” in French)
Starting at Chalet Pelerin and Chalet Hibou, this hike takes us in the direction of the hamlet of La Falconnière on the sustained path through the Forest of Miroir. This moderate path leads you to the Plan du Bachal at the top of the forest which provides indescribable views of the Haute Tarentaise valley. You will then continue on to the path that crosses the meadows to reach the summit of Bec Rouge and enjoy the 360-degree panoramic views of Mont-Blanc and beyond. There are several descent options to choose from, all of which provide beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.
5. Lakes of Bella-Combaz / Ruitor Waterfalls
The Lakes of Bella-Combaz/Ruitor Waterfalls is a beautiful, yet difficult, hiking trail. The beginning of the hike departs from the Ruitor Alpage where you will follow a relatively steep path that crosses the plateau and then heads up towards the Lac du Petit. The trail continues to climb towards the Col du Tachuy, with the last section being quite steep. Your efforts will be rewarded with remarkable views of the whole Mont-Blanc massif, the Ruitor Glaciers, and the valley below. Once you’ve made it to the French-Italian border, you will start your descent to the lakes of Bella-Combaz where you will find a series of magnificent Alpine lakes. As you continue your descent in the direction of the Ruitor waterfalls, where the path will cross many varied and superb landscapes. At the end of your hike, you will cross the border into Italy and indulge in an authentic Italian meal in the small village of La Thuile.
Hiking the Lakes of Bella Combaz hiking trail in the French Alps.
Are you adding hiking in the French Alps to your summer bucket list?
Needless to say, there are many great hiking trails in the Tarentaise Valley, and these are only five options. Are you ready to experience summertime in the French Alps after hearing about our local France team’s favorites? Book your reservation at either Chalet Pelerin or Chalet Hibou today — France is waiting for you.
By: Jean Noel Gaidet
Lead Guide in France
